Is Silk ecological? The Truth About Its Production and Use

Origin and manufacturing of silk

silk is a textile fiber of animal origin produced mainly by the silkworm, the mulberry bombyx. This domestic lepidopteran secretes silk to form its cocoon.

The manufacturing process to obtain silk thread from these cocoons is called sericulture. It consists of:

1. Raising silkworms
2. Harvest the cocoons
3. Process the cocoons to extract the continuous silk threads
4. Weave these threads to create silk fabric

Animal or plant material: where does silk come from?

The majority of silk produced in the world comes from the silkworm, which feeds on mulberry leaves. However, there are also plant-based alternatives.

We then speak of vegetable silk, which can be produced from bamboo, soya, corn, nettle or even kapok. These materials are chemically or mechanically treated to obtain fibers that imitate silk of animal origin.

Also read: Which animal produces silk?

Silk manufacturing: the sericulture process

Silk production via sericulture is a multi-step process:

1. Raising silkworms

It all starts with the intensive breeding of silkworms, called bombyx caterpillars. They are fed with mulberry leaves, which they are very fond of.

2. Formation of cocoons

Once they reach maturity, the caterpillars weave a cocoon around themselves, made of silk thread. They will stay there for 3 to 10 days before transforming into chrysalises.

3. Treatment of cocoons

The cocoons are harvested then immersed in hot water to kill the chrysalises before their metamorphosis into butterflies. This step helps prevent the wire from being damaged.

The cocoons are then unwound to recover the precious thread.

4. Spinning and milling

The silk threads are assembled and twisted to form a more consistent thread during the spinning and milling stages.

We then obtain raw silk, which can be dyed and woven.

Also read: Where does the silkworm live?

Is silk vegan? A question of ethics

Silk production involves the breeding and exploitation of an animal, the silkworm. It is therefore not considered vegan or vegetarian.

Some animal rights activists even denounce the poor living conditions of silkworms in intensive breeding.

Plant silk allows us to overcome these ethical questions. But the chemical processes used raise other environmental problems.

Silk fabric: between maintenance and durability

The silk fabric feels very pleasant on the skin. It is also a relatively durable textile, which can last for years if cared for properly.

However, the production process being tedious, the cost of silk remains high.

In addition, this delicate fabric requires careful maintenance and dry cleaning, which are not always ecological.

Also read: Where is silk produced in France?

Environmental impact of silk production

Even if silk is biodegradable and sustainable, its production has significant impacts:

• Intensive cultivation of mulberry, which requires pesticides and irrigation
• Significant consumption of water and energy throughout the process
• Discharges of chemicals into wastewater
• Emissions of CO2 linked to transport and processing
• Sometimes precarious working conditions for workers

More ethical and ecological production is possible, but more expensive.

Having visited several silkworm farms in Asia myself, I can attest to the enormous quantities of water used daily to clean the facilities and feed the precious mulberry trees. Without responsible management, there is a real risk of water waste and pollution in traditional sericulture.
— Geoffrey, Founder of The Oversized Hoodie®

Also read: What is the name of the silkworm breeder?

Ecological disadvantages of silk production and use

Silk therefore faces several criticisms from an environmental point of view:

• Animal exploitation in traditional sericulture
• Pollution linked to pesticides for mulberry cultivation
• High consumption of water and energy for processing
• Use of chemicals for digging and bleaching
• Delicate fabric care (dry clean)

Efforts are being undertaken to minimize these impacts, but the results are not yet optimal.

Organic silk VS conventional silk: a question of ecology

Faced with these challenges, organic silk attempts to minimize the environmental impact via:

• More natural dyes and treatments
• Better traceability of production
• Better working conditions for workers
• A limitation of pesticides for mulberry cultivation

But this ethical silk remains marginal and more expensive, which limits its adoption.

Also read: How do worms weave silk?

The future of silk in the face of environmental challenges

Certifications such as the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) label or the Oeko-Tex label guarantee more responsible production.

But efforts still need to be made to:

• Reduce the quantities of water and energy consumed
• Limit the use of polluting chemicals
• Improve recycling and waste treatment
• Ensure the working conditions of workers

Greater consumer awareness and public policies promoting sustainable silk will be necessary.

At The Oversized Hoodie®, we actively encourage our suppliers to adopt organic and fair trade silk production. Even if this involves additional costs, guaranteeing decent working conditions and limiting the pesticides used is in line with our values ​​of ethics and sustainable development.
— Geoffrey, Founder of The Oversized Hoodie®

Conclusion

The production of silk, whether of animal or plant origin, therefore has a significant impact on the environment. Despite more ethical and ecological alternatives which are developing, efforts remain to be made to make the sector entirely sustainable.

In the meantime, limit your consumption of silk, favor labelled products, and take care of the clothes you has already been part of the individual virtuous gestures.

Appearance	Environmental impact	Sustainable solutions	Organic silk
Production	Water and energy consumption, pesticides, CO2	GOTS label, Oeko-Tex	Natural dyes, pesticide limitation
Silkworm breeding	Intensive breeding, animal exploitation	Improvement of living conditions	Better working conditions
Alternatives	Plant silk: chemical processes	Search for less polluting processes	Marginal but less impactful
Maintenance	Non-ecological dry cleaning	Careful maintenance for durability	N/A
Global impact	Important for the environment	Limitation of consumption, ethical choices	More expensive but ecological production

FAQ

Is silk vegan?

No, silk of animal origin produced by the silkworm is not considered vegan, because it involves the breeding and exploitation of an animal. Only vegetable silk allows us to overcome ethical questions.

What are the benefits of silk?

silk offers a very pleasant sensation on the skin, a soft and fluid touch. It is also a fiber relatively strong and durable. It stands up well over time.

What are the defects of silk?

Its production is very intensive in water and energy. The intensive breeding of silkworms also raises ethical questions. Silk fabric requires delicate maintenance and dry cleaning, not very ecological.

Where does silk come from?

silk mainly comes from the mulberry bombyx, an insect which produces silk thread to form its cocoon. This yarn is then processed to obtain the fabric. There is also plant silk, made from plant fibers.

How is silk made?

silk fabric is produced from the cocoons spun by silkworm larvae, called bombyx caterpillars. Once the cocoons are harvested, the continuous threads are extracted and then woven together to create the famous shiny fabric.

How is silk made?

The manufacture of silk or sericulture involves the rearing of worms, the spinning and the weaving. The caterpillars are fed with mulberry leaves, then weave a cocoon of silk thread. The cocoons are treated in hot water, then unwound to recover the long continuous threads, which are then woven.

What is ice silk?

Iced silk is a type of silk with a shiny finish. Its smooth, shiny surface is reminiscent of ice. This calendering process gives it a satin appearance. Glazed silk is used in particular for elegant clothing or chic interiors.

Sources

[1] "La soie est-elle écologique ?", Council of Fashion Designers of America

[2] "La durabilité de la soie", Good On You